Goodwick-Pwllgwaelod

Including a stop at the picturesque lower Fishguard Harbour

Time: 4 hours

Length: 6.42 miles

0.00miles Ocean Lab, Goodwich

SM 94754 37916 EAST: 194754 NORTH: 237915

We started this leg at the Ocean Lab by the sea front at Goodwick. The Ocean Lab is home to the Sea Trust, a marine conservation group and their Sea Môr Aquarium, which offers an insight into the marine wildlife living around Fishguard Bay. This is definitely a place I want to visit soon, so keep an eye out for my blog entry!

Looking out across Fishguard Bay, I could see our final destination for todays walk, Pwllgwaelod, in the distance, it seemed really far away!!

On our left was Stena Line's Fishguard ferry terminal. The port was empty, as the ferry to Rosslare in Ireland had already set sail earlier in the day. We turned our backs on the port and headed in the opposite direction, along the promenade and past the play park. The promenade is known as Marine Walk, but is sign-posted the Coast Path.

A long breakwater stretched out from the promenade, it is possible to walk to the end of it, which we have done in the past. Today, we carried on to pass the mosaics depicting the history and culture of Fishguard, including the last invasion of Britain in 1797, when four French sailing vessels anchored off nearby Carreg Wasted Point. During the half hearted and unorganised attempt at invasion, 1200 frenchmen and Irish revolutionaries occupied the coast near stumble head for two days before surrendering on the sands on Goodwick. A group of welsh women armed with only pitchforks, led by Jemima Nicholas, rounded up 12 French men and held them captive in a church. The story of the invasion can be followed on the Fishguard Tapestry, a take on the Bayeux Tapestry, which was completed to make the bi-centurian of the invasion in 1997.

500 yards Steps

SM 95020 37558 EAST: 195020 NORTH: 237558

At the end of the promenade we reached a steep flight of stairs which climbed the cliffs bordering Goodwick Beach at each end. The tarmac path continued along the cliff tops and offered great views across Goodwick Harbour to the ferry port. As it turned to the right at Saddle point, the views changed as the picturesque old Lower Fishguard harbour come into view.

The path eventually reached a row of pretty cottage, from here you can turn right and enter the commercial streets of upper Fishguard. However, we turned left and heading down to follow the path around the quay to Lower Fishguard.

1.62 miles Lower Fishguard Quay

SM 9628 37228 EAST: 196280 NORTH: 237228

The path entered Lower Fishguard at Skirmisher Carpark on the west quay. We passed an old warehouse, which is now used by the Sea Cadets, to briefly rejoin the main road which takes you across the River Gwaun via a stone bridge.

Lower Fishguard is backed by the deep Gwaun Valley, created by melt Waters from the last ice age. It is from the Gwaun River, that runs through this Valley and sourced from the Preseli Hills, that the welsh name for Fishguard is derived from - "Abergwaun", the mouth of the river Gwaun.

The coast path turns off the road after the bridge and follows the quay wall. We grabbed an ice cream from a nearby van and sat on the wall by the sculpture commemorating the Herring history, to take in the view.

It is believed that Fishguard was originally a Norse trading post in the 10th century, when it would have been surrounded by a secure castle wall. In the Middle Ages lower Fishguard developed as a herring fishery and port, trading with Ireland, Bristol and Liverpool. It was from this hamlet that the modern upper Fishguard grew

These days the quay is a popular location for recreational activities. With the tide in, an adventure company were offering canoe hire and children were playing on their canoes in the shallow waters by the slip road. Further out in the quay, little boats bobbed on the turquoise water whilst more experienced canoeist navigated their way amongst them as they made their way towards the harbour entrance.

From the sculpture the Coast path crosses Quay Street, passes between two buildings, and emerges on the pedestrian foot path by the main A487 road.

However, we decided to spend a little longer absorbing the atmosphere of the tranquil old harbour. We walked along Quay Street, past brightly coloured Fishermans cottages, some of which were built 300 years ago, to the harbour wall.

The Quay was busy with people enjoying the sun, as we walked back toward the sculpture we saw families catching crabs from the harbour wall.

At the sculptor, we rejoined the coast path. Using the pedestrian footpath, we followed the road as it climbed steeply out of Lower Fishguard. When the road turned to the right, we continued straight using a narrow footpath through a small wooded area to emerge at castle point.

2.10miles Fishguard Fort

SM 96221 37801 EAST: 196220 NORTH: 237800

Set high above the harbour entrance with views across Fishguard Bay and along the coast, it is easy to see why this was the location chosen to build a fort during the American war of independence in the early 1780’s. Today it is still possible to see the ammunition house and gun battery amongst the ruins.

We enjoyed the views across the bay as we took a quick water stop, before retracing our steps for a few metres to re-join the coast path. As we continued, we could see some of the canoeists from the harbour making their way along the coastline below us.

2.46miles Llanddu Beach

SM 96678 37643 EAST: 196677 NORTH: 237643

After less than half a mile, the coast path dropped down, almost to the level of Pwll Landdu. We left the path and scrambled down the last couple of meters to investigate the secluded stony beach. We found a little dog waiting patiently on the rocks for his owner who was swimming nearby.

From here, with the aid of steps, the path climbed steeply upwards, hugging the wire fencing of livestock fields. Once at the top of the cliff tops, we followed the narrow path between the fencing on our right and the expanse of bracken, peppered with purple foxgloves on our left.

As we approached the foot of Carn Fran, the fenced in pastures gave way to more rugged grazing land. An old stone wall replaced the new wire fencing, and the path became windier and rougher under foot. The distance between us and the cliff edges increased, and the bracken was taken over by gorse.

As we approached the Penrhyn Ychen Headland, we looked back along the coast and were treated to views of Needle Rock and natural arches.

3.75miles Penrhyn Ychen

SM 98305 38321 EAST: 198305 NORTH: 238321

On reaching Penrhyn Ychen, the remote atmosphere changed as the path entered Fishguard Bay Resort, a camping and caravan site.

This headland once served as a lookout and artillery battery during the two world wars. Today, the lookout building has been converted into holiday accommodation.

The well signposted path turned right at the site shop before turning left to pass a couple of caravan pitches. We found a gate in the corner of the last pitch and left the site.

Here the path was lined by spiky hawthorn hedgerow, blocking our view of the cliffs on our left. The hedge of the right gave way to fenced pastureland from where cattle came to great us.

As the path turned sharply right, tall wooden posts had been placed to mark deep holes dug by badgers along the path.

The Path eventually reached a small road, we turned left and then left again, went through a gate and down a wide track which took us to Aber Bach.

5.18 miles Aberbach Beach

SM 99686 38607 EAST: 199686 NORTH: 238606

Aber bach is a secluded beach which we visit often. Although it can we reached via a small road, parking is very limited, so we normally park in Dinas Cross and follow the little stream through the valley, past the water mill to the bay.

This afternoon the deep sheltered bay, with it’s grey sand and pebbly beach and cool easily accessible sea, was a lovely break from the exposed sun beaten cliff tops.

After a fuel stop and a paddle in the sea, we were all set for the last mile or so.

The climb up from Aber Bach felt steep but it soon levelled out and we could look back at the cove and the rugged rock formations of Pen Erw-goch on the opposite side of the bay.

The Path followed the steep cliffs across open grassed sheep pastures, with no obstructions, it was possible to see over to Dinas Island.

We left the sheep field via a gate to pass behind Pwll Gwylog, a crescent shaped beach. We often see the odd person on this beach which I think is accessible via the stream, although we have never tried.

We carried on along the path until we came to a junction, the foot path carries on to the hamlet of Bryn-Hellan, however we turned left, sticking to the coast path as it descends down steep steps to Pwllgwaelod.

6.42miles Pwllgwaelod

SN 00499 39912 EAST: 200498 NORTH: 239911

Pwllgwaelod is a small, sandy beach, which is sheltered by rocks on either side. In the past, it was occasionally used as a harbour when strong winds meant Fishguard was inaccessible.

A small pub, the Old Sailor’s can be found by the beach. It is thought to originate from 1593 when it was called the Sailor’s Safety, referring to the lamp it always kept burning in order to guide ships. Unfortunately we reached the pub after closing time!!

Instead, we played on the beach with the dog before resting on the sea wall to take in the view across Fishguard Bay. We could see Goodwick in the distance where we had started this leg earlier in the day.

Please Sponsor Me